Professional angling coach Ian Gemson describes the systems he uses...
Rigs, in particular lead systems, are an important talking point for many carp anglers, magazines and DVDs. Long range rigs, chod rigs, lead eject rigs, and even rotten bottom rigs - the list is long, with a rig for every occasion. Many rigs when used correctly are great for catching carp, but many are better at catching anglers and filling magazine column space than actually banking fish.
Leads and lead systems have not been subject to any major technical advancement over recent years. Instead, they have evolved gradually enabling the development of systems such as the lead clip system, which allow us to fish much safer rigs than we did years ago when we had to make our own rig systems.
With the huge choice of terminal tackle components available, where do you begin? First, we need to understand where and how we are going to fish.
Inline lead systems are easy to use and require the least amount of components. This simplicity reduces the potential for the rig to tangle and snag. With the leader passing through the middle of the lead and exiting at the front (heavy end), the fish feels most of the weight of the lead quicker than with swivel leads. Due to the hook length exiting the front of the lead, inline leads are great for fishing over hard or gravel bottom lakebeds.
Running rigs are one of the oldest and sensitive lead systems. The rig is inherently safe, as the lead is free to run up and down the leader and main line. When used with a swivel lead, these systems are aero dynamic, and, with the rig components trailing behind the lead on the cast, they are suited to long-range fishing.
Lead clips or lead eject rigs have revolutionised rig making. The rig has the bolt effect of a fixed lead hooking the carp when they pick up your hook bait and "bolt off" with it, but with the potential of dropping the lead if the fish swims into weed or snags. This is a big improvement on the traditional snag prone bolt rig. When used correctly, a side clip rig is 100 per cent safe, easy to set up and it's a simple operation to change the lead when needed.
RIG SELECTION
Running rigs
One of the oldest and simplest rig designs is the running rig. This is one of the most 
sensitive lead systems used today. It gives good bite indication because the lead acts as an anchor point and whichever direction the fish runs the bobbin will lift. This makes it a good system for fishing slack lines.
With the lead freely running up and down the leader/mainline, this set up is particularly suited to venues where you are fishing barbless hooks, as the fish cannot use the free running lead to help bounce the hook from its mouth. You do need to make sure that if you are using a leader, the lead can pass freely over the leader main line knot. This rig is good on hard or soft lakebeds, but do not use near or in weed. Don't forget this rig when you are winter fishing. It will help you to see those delicate bites from the cold carp.
Lead clip/ lead eject rigs
Many anglers choose to use lead clip/lead eject rigs. This popular system is relatively 
easy to set up and it is 100 per cent safe if used correctly. Take care to build you rig using components from a single manufacturer to ensure it works properly. By interchanging parts you could create a rig that at worst is a tether rig and at best dumps the lead as soon as the lead hits the water surface.
Do not store your rig with the tail rubber pushed onto the lead clip system, as this will cause it to lose its tension and lose its effectiveness. Before you cast your rig, test it to ensure you can pull the lead from the lead clip without too much force. If you are in any doubt, always read the manufacturer's instructions.
This rig, with its lead semi-fixed in place, can be tricky to use. When using barbless hooks, for example, the carp can use the weight of the lead to eject the hook. Also, with the lead fixed in relation to the hook length the carp can pick up the entire rig and lead and swim off without you ever seeing an indication when fishing a slack line or using a light bobbin. This rig is best used in weedy or snaggy conditions and with a heavy bobbin.
Inline rigs
Inline lead set ups will offer you instant hooking as most of the weight is 
concentrated around the hook length swivel. The carp will feel the weight much sooner with this set up than any other lead set up. Inline leads can be used in both a running and bolt effect style and have the same positive and negative attributes as the previous two rigs described above.
To minimize tangling, make sure your leader or rig tube is longer than your hook length. With the hook length exiting from the front of the lead, be careful when casting into silty or soft clay lakebeds as the lead can be stuck in the silt/clay when it hits the bottom. A lead stuck in the lakebed may be very difficult for the fish to move if it picks up your bait and you will not get any indication. If this happens to you, try lessening the impact of the lead entering the water by feathering the cast or clipping up the main line to your spool.
Helicopter rigs
The anti-tangle properties of the helicopter rig evolved for long-range casting. 
Originally, the rig used a length of lead core line with a distance casting lead attached to it. Two beads were pushed onto the lead core, with a swivel trapped between the two beads and a short stiff rig was attached to the swivel. During the cast, the bait twisted around the lead core just like a helicopter blade giving it its name. Carp anglers soon realised that this rig was great for silt fishing as the hook length could be positioned high up along the lead core by simply pushing the beads up the lead core.
The rig became popular for overcoming problems with fishing over lakebed detritus and by modifying the hook link length gave rise to the chod rig.
The helicopter rig is undoubtedly a superb anti-tangle long-range rig, but you do need to be aware it can have issues when using barbless hooks or fishing slack lines.
Chod rigs
Without doubt, the chod rig is a one of the most popular (and fashionable) systems used for carp fishing in the UK. It is very similar 
to the helicopter rig, so it's practically tangle free, lays perfectly over any type of bottom debris and carp find it very hard to eject. This is due to the rig's ultra-short hook length.
The chod rig is a specialised pop-up presentation and has to be tied carefully using the correct components. A stiff hook length material is necessary because it allows you to form that all-important curve that carp find difficult to eject once sucked in. It also needs to be used with a highly buoyant pop-up such as the cork ball design or one of the many ready made pop-ups available on the market today .
If you try to use this rig over heavy bottom weed, remember to use a long leader to make sure the rig sits on top of the weed rather than being pulled into it. You can get over this problem by not using a leader at all and simply attaching the chod rig directly to a strong 15lb or 18lb main line. This is known as the naked or invisible chod rig. The hook length components are tied as normal and locked in place by beads, which have a moderate grip on the main line. This setup allows you to have the hook length at whatever distance you want from the lead within reason.
Your lead system may only be one small part of your fishing, but it is very important to get it right. Take your time to understand the topography of the lakebed and its composition, the distances you will be casting and fishing and the bait type and size you need to use. This information will help you to select a rig that performs well.
If the fish are getting rig shy, try swapping from a swivel lead to an inline lead. This will start turning the hook as
it leaves the carp's mouth a lot quicker than a swivel lead. The fish will feel the weight of the lead much quicker resulting in more hook ups and more fish on the bank. However, this rig is not suited to weedy conditions and you should always make the rig as safe as possible.
IMPROVING THE SIDE CLIP SYSTEM
There are times when you must use a side clip/lead eject system. However, the design of the side clip with the free movement of the large eyed swivel on top of the lead gives as much as 25mm of rig movement before the fish even starts to feel the weight of the lead. I find this unacceptable, as I want the fish to feel the weight of the lead soon after picking up the baited rig, so I have been modifying and adapting my swivel leads to improve pick up.
The first rig is a standard side clip/lead eject set up that will allow a lot of swivel/rig movement before the fish feels the lead and gets hooked.
The second rig is a standard side clip/lead eject set up, using a 12 mm length of 3 mm diameter silicone sleeve placed over the big ring swivel. This limits the swivel from moving side to side, but still allows the swivel to twist. This allows about 3 mm of rig movement before the fish feels the lead and is hooked. This set up is much better than the first rig and will certainly result in more hook ups when the fish are picking up your baited rigs.
The last rig is a standard side clip/lead eject with the large eyed swivel removed from the lead. You have to make sure the brass loop in the top of the lead is large enough to fit over the plastic clip and that you enlarge the brass eye if it is too small. This set up allows virtually no movement, making this a very effective rig. The shorter lead /clip height also makes this a much easier rig set up to fit into a solid PVA bag presentation.
Finally take a little time to make your rig as inconspicuous as possible by selecting a lead core or plastic leader that matches the colour of lakebed as closely as possible. Take along a few permanent chisel tipped marker pens to dab onto the rig to break up its silhouette - and don't just camouflage the leader, do the lead, lead clips and all of the terminal tackle as well. Take your time to think about your fishing and put your best possible rig in front of your quarry. When you have done the best you can do, the rest is up to the fish.
Tight lines!
Ian Gemson